Thursday, December 20, 2007

Jordan - Petra - Dec 2007

They say that a visit to the pyramids at Giza, in Egypt, leaves you in wonder and astonishment at the capabilities and achievements of mankind. Well, a visit to the ancient lost city of Petra, in Jordan, does just that and more….

Petra is an archaeological treasure renowned for its magical rock-cut architecture, temples and tombs. You will recognize it from movies such as Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade (I know… wow!). It is basically a huge, sprawling and ancient “lost city” carved out of rocks and hidden behind an almost impenetrable barrier of rugged mountains in southwestern Jordan. It is the legacy of the Nabataeans, an industrious Arab people who settled in southern Jordan more than 2000 years ago. Admired then for its refined culture, massive architecture and ingenious complex of dams and water channels, Petra is now a UNESCO world heritage site (described by them as "one of the most precious cultural properties of man's cultural heritage”) and one of The New 7 Wonders of the World that is certain to enchant visitors from all corners of the globe.

The site remained unknown to the Western world until 1812 (hence the “lost” reference), when it was discovered by a Swiss explorer, who (if I recall correctly) pretended he was an Arabic religious preacher coming to perform a ritual there (it was generally hidden from outsiders, as legend has it that the Pharaoh from Egypt got as far as here and the city has hidden treasures – just like the movie, then). It takes a few hours drive through the desert from Amman to get there, and then a hike to get to it, which is not for the faint-hearted! Everything, though, from the scenery on the desert drive to the eerie and dramatic walk through “the Siq” or natural gorge in the mountains to get there is well worth the effort. Every corner you turn once you are in the mountains takes your breath away. I found myself grinning from ear-to-ear, naturally, for the whole day I spent there. Part of me was amazed, as I had never seen such sights before (I don’t think there are any), part of me was nostalgic, remembering my Indiana Jones adventures obsession as a child, part of me was intrigued and proud, wondering how mankind could be and was capable of such amazing things even BC, and a great big part of me felt lucky that I was standing there, in the middle of the desert and mountains, in Jordan, in the Middle-East, looking at this ancient Wonder of the Ancient World (one of the recently updated new 7 wonders of the world). It was first said that Petra was "designed to strike wonder into all who entered it". Well, it was designed well then, because it definitely does that!! Although much has been written about Petra, nothing really prepares you for this amazing place. It has to be seen to be believed.




Entrance to the city is through the Siq, a narrow gorge, over 1 kilometre in length, which is flanked on either side by soaring, 80-metre high cliffs. Just walking through the Siq is an experience in itself. The long, narrow, cool, creepy and gloomy chasm, whose steeply rising sides shut out the sun, provides a dramatic contrast with the magic which lies ahead.
Suddenly the gorge opens into a natural square dominated by Petra's most famous monument (and the one of Indiana Jones fame), The Treasury (El-Khazneh), whose intricately carved facade glows rose-pink / orange in the dazzling sun. This is an awe-inspiring experience. A massive façade, 30m wide and 43m high, carved out of the sheer, dusky pink, rock-face and dwarfing everything around it. It was carved in the early1st century as the tomb of an important Nabataean king and represents the engineering genius of these ancient people.
*PIC*
The Treasury is just the first of the many wonders that make up Petra. You will need at least two to three full days to really explore everything here. As you enter the Petra valley you will be overwhelmed by the natural beauty of this place and its outstanding architectural achievements. More facades beckon you in until the ancient city gradually unfolds, one monument leading to another for kilometre after kilometre. The sheer size of the city and the quality of beautifully carved facades is simply staggering and leads you to sit back and reflect on the creativity and industry of the Nabataeans who made Petra their capital. I consistently found myself asking “How on earth did they manage that?”






Along the way you will pass local women, men and children in Arab dress and head-dresses, trying to help you, guide you or sell you their wares. You’ll see camels, donkeys, horses, carts, stalls…. imagine a typical Arabian nights (or days) scene in the desert from a movie and you’re there.


Al-Deir (The Monastery) is the furthest point you can walk to in Petra. It is a tiring climb up the mountain, but definitely worthwhile, not only for the other monuments to be seen en route but also the mountain scenery and spectacular/ breathtaking views. On the incline, there is a magnificent view back to the city center and the Royal Tombs.

After a short climb through the narrow mountain passage you are brought out suddenly onto the large open area in front of the stunning Al-Deir (Monastery). Al-Deir itself is cut into the mountainside but not dominated by it. One really needs to see a human figure at its base to appreciate the huge scale of the largest facade in Petra. The doorway alone is over 8 m high. When I was there, a local Bedouin guy sat there, playing what sounded like a tin whistle, looking stoned, then jumped to his feet and literally scaled the sheer rock face at the side of this massive monument like a monkey and disappeared over the mountain, behind the monastery.

If you do make it this far, then do not stop there. Continue just a short way beyond and you will be rewarded by the most magnificent panoramic views over the mountains and desert in the direction of the Wadi Araba and Israel to the west.

This is as far as you can go, unless you want to abseil down into the wilderness beyond. By this point, you really are way up in the mountains, and are probably knackered from the 3 hour hike up there (if you’re fit), so you’ll be ready to make the long journey back through the sites, which are just as impressive the second time you see them (I had to stop myself from taking all the same pictures again – I think 300 was enough!).

All in all, there are over 800 individual monuments, including buildings, tombs, baths, funerary halls, temples, arched gateways, and colonnaded streets, that were mostly carved from the kaleidoscopic sandstone by the technical and artistic genius of its inhabitants.

Petra’s sights, as most sights, are definitely at their best in early morning and late afternoon, when the angled sun highlights the amazing natural colour of the rocks. Then, you can view the majesty of Petra as it was seen first when discovered in 1812 after being lost by the 16th century for almost 300 years! Regardless of when you go, however, Petra is sure to stun. You will go there, be transported back in time to an ancient civilization, and leave with a new appreciation of evolution and the astounding achievements of the human race.